How To Clean Carbs On 98 Yamaha Gp1200

Having a lot of trouble trying to figure this carb tuning stuff out.

History: purchased '97 gp1200 about 3 years agone. Ski came with mild modifications: riva air cleaners, asphyxiate removed and primer kit, intake grate, and I believe impeller change. Ski lasted 2 seasons and so melted the heart piston, siezed the crank.

This year I replaced motor with SBT, and rebuilt carbs.

Carbs were questionable to first out with and so I turned all screws in and so back out every bit per factory spec + over tolerance to assure that mixture should be rich.

Drained all bad gas, put all burglary oil in and filled tank to around 13gal. TCW3 filled into injector tank and stock oil pump tested for normal performance. Basically using old plugs. I've left air cleaners off for testing and tweaking.

Ski is a bit hard to start;. Afterward priming I need to play with throttle to get it going and keep it going for start few seconds. When starting, the motor almost seems like information technology is unbalanced, only will eventually offset and idle. Motor seems to shake a bit, particularly around 3000 rpm. Seems to idle OK all the same if I shut downwardly for more than a few minutes, restart is non as easy as expected.

I've tried "reading the plugs" as suggested on this site, and am merely completely dislocated and frustrated. At idle, my ski makes more smoke than theator fog machine, only the plugs don't seem to tell me anything useful. 3rd looks like it has color, 1st and second are basically bare clean and the seem to stay that way no thing how far I plow the low adjustment out.

Going to full speed for a few seconds turns the plugs make clean and white -- a far cry from the nice brown pictures posted in guide. The few times I got it up to speed, it seemed to run well without vibration.

My main concern is melting this engine. I've already polluted the air with about 1/2 tank of gas and am however not sure if it is anywhere even close.

I suspect that I only can't get a good reading with all this oil called-for. I also suspect my plugs are fouling from all my depression-end testing. At this bespeak I can't exist certain if the engine is damaged; it could just non be making ability due to being over-rich and fouling.

I think the plugs have to be changed before anything else happens. I'll be compression testing this affair again today.

Few questions:
1) what top-end rpm range should I run into on tach?
2) what rpm range is the danger/lean zone for this machine
3) is there any significant difference running with air-cleaners on or off
4) What suggestions practice people have?
v) what PSI should I run into from a new SBT engine? I recall it should be nigh 125

Right now, my thoughts are to reset all screws to factory spec, not worry most idle/depression end, install new fresh plugs, and accept it easy and burn upwards the rest of this gas with the burglary oil. GroupK suggests tweaking lows and highs using an RPM meter and and so checking this against plug colour so I might endeavor this.

Any thoughts, pointers, help, references appreciated. Lesser line, I don't want to pause this motor and have to go through another re-build, warantee or non.

Thanks all,

Y'all CAN NOT employ stock specs for aftermarket equipment! Y'all have no air filters on - you tin can't exercise that. Have you opened the carbs to run into what they are jetted to and what the pop-off pressure is set up to, for the riva filters? Without doing then, you have NO idea what to do with the carbs. For all you know some idiot put the filters on at that place with no other changes - which volition make it run similar crap and blow it.

Don't try to read the plugs at idle. Y'all prepare the low speed screws from experience - later you lot exercise the above.

Without knowing what impeller is on at that place, yous have no idea what your RPM should be. RPM does not correlate to a lean condition. Your pinch should exist effectually 120.

Hmm, ok, thanks.

I don't think there were any modifications to the carbs other than removal of the choke plates and riva air cleaners. When I took the carbs off, they looked virtually new ... none of the paint around the screws or seals were chipped; no prove of always beingness taken apart. So at this point, I think it is safe to say that the jets were never upgraded.

And so, what specifically would your suggestion be? Should I put the air cleaners on fifty-fifty while testing? Any thoughts as to what I should fix the high and low screws at to start at? I suppose what I will too do is phone call Riva today to see what sort of carb upgrades were recomended with their air cleaners.

At this point, I've mostly run the automobile beneath 3000 rpm. I've striking full speed maybe three times for not longer than a few seconds each time.

What about my tank of break-in oiled up gas? I've smoked up nearly 1/2 tank of this gas already, then figure I have possibly 6-8gal left to become.

Also, do you lot know what max RPM'south should be like with a stock impeller?

Over again, whatever communication appreciated ... thank you!

Call Riva, get the jets, springs and needle & seats you demand, or put the stock box dorsum on. Do not run it without flame arrestors (cleaners). Non just practice they foreclose backfire flames, they effect the carb function.

Stock RPM is 6800

Merely as follow-upward ....

I called Riva ... the service guy was very squeamish and offered upwardly a few tips.

Aparently on my boat, at that place are no additional jetting or springs necessary with the Riva flame arresters, nonetheless carb adjustment is definitely necessary.

The recomendation was to commencement at the following:
high: i 1/4 turn out
low: 1 turn out

If I call back correctly (don't have the mill specs in forepart of me now) that would exist bacteria than stock on low jets, and richer than stock on loftier (especially on cyl 1 & 3). He also recomended adjusting in 1/8 increments only.

So tonight, I'k going to readjust as suggested, put the air-cleaners dorsum on, pinch test, put in new plugs and endeavour once more.

Any other assist or advice appreciated! Thanks again and wish me luck! Hopefully if I am succseeful I'll mail notes back to this thread for any future people ....

Well, it'due south an old debate, and I know they have had some guys in that location that say that...but IMO that is dead wrong. Not only does the jetting need to be changed, just the pop-off pressure needs to drop also. I ran those filters (along with dozens of other mods through the years) and no, the stock jetting and pop-off does not piece of work well. You should have asked him why thier 'performance kit' comes with new jets, springs and seats if they weren't needed. :) My setup is listed in the High Operation Setup List section of these forums. I have never been impressed with Riva products, either for the quality or price. I've had parts melt, interruption, shear, tear...they just don't last. I junked my last set of Riva filters because two of them were torn right downwardly the side from flexing. Tau Ceti or Prox (Fly) are 10x better and sturdy as a rock - PLUS give better signal to the carbs. Ok, done with ranting...

PWC-abuser,

Reasonable minds may disagree, merely I'd go with TS over the guy ar RIVA on this. He's got the same ski as yours, and tons of experience. I'chiliad not saying he'south infallible (no one is), but he's correct virtually 99% of the fourth dimension.

Just my ii cents. Good luck.

Hmm, interesting.

Well, I should probably only become a stock unit once again.

Without pop-off and rejetting, is there whatever serious risk of engine meltdown with the setup I have at present? I would similar to suit and possibly use the auto this weekend, merely if there is a serious concern over meltdown I could wait until I get a stock unit of measurement it.

One time again, thanks,

There certainly is if you are not experienced at tuning. Yous can easily take one cylinder as well lean and not notice it until it's too late. The other two can brand up for a shortcoming. Turning out fine tuning adjusters to recoup for needed jetting is not the way to become. If I were you lot I would become all stock.

Well, I seem to accept had some success tonight.

I set the lows to i turn out and highs to 1.25 out and replaced the riva air cleaners. Immediately I noticed a big difference on start. The ski doesn't fume like a rock-due north-whorl fog machine whatsoever longer.

When I was fooling with the cleaners off, I had the idle set somewhere effectually 1500 rpm. Afterwards the new adjustment and replace cleaners, idle was hovering above 2000 rpm -- and then I backed it back down. Non sure if that is good or bad, only it does feel better on commencement and idle now.

With the plugs existence new I didn't expect much out of testing ... I did a brusque run on the one.25 setting and tested once again with some other ane/viii turn out. #1 appeared to be developing a skillful color, but #2 and #3 seem to need more.

So anyway, I think I'll be ordering a stock air cleaner.

I've never worked on a totally stock machine ... how hard is it to adjust the loftier jets with the stock air cleaner? Any tools that piece of work practiced for this stuff? Right at present I'm struggeling a bit with this cheap right angle screw drive I picked up from Home Depot.

Thanks!

How To Clean Carbs On 98 Yamaha Gp1200

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